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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Nvidia box said: min. 400 watt or greater system power supply (with a min. 12v current rating of 26A). What would the combined amperage of my PSU be? Thank you~David

 

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You should be more then fine, the Cooler Master units are decent quality. To get your amps add the +12 volt rails together, so 16, 14 and 8 for a total of 38 amps.
 

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An alternate method of figuring the amperage on the combined rails is to divide the total Watts across all of them (in this case 456) by the voltage of the rail (in this case 12).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much for helping me understand the PSU specs Triple6!! Thank you for the additional formula for figuring combined amperage Jackiefrost9!!
~David :D
 

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jackiefrost9 last time I checked the three 12v rails total sum is 456 divided by 12 equals 38. Why are you saying 32 now?
:confused:
Sorry about the confusion bgdave1 I kind of hijacked your thread.... Jackiefrost9 was responding to a link of a decal of my psu which is 32a yours is 38a...Again I apologize for the confusion.
 

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Sorry about the confusion bgdave1 I kind of hijacked your thread.... Jackiefrost9 was responding to a link of a decal of my psu which is 32a yours is 38a...Again I apologize for the confusion.
Yup, what he said
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ha ha ha....no problem accat13 and Jackiefrost9...I just thought there was something I was missing? Well actually there is win2kpro, where did you see 33% more advertised out put?.....and I quote:

"PSU manufacturers are magicians. Here Cooler Master made approximately 33% of the original advertised output disappear simply by putting a decal on the power supply." I want to understand where you see 33% more advertised out put?

I do really appreciate you people that are more experienced sharing your knowledge THANK YOU!!!~David
 

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Nice thread. Hopefully it will help some folks better understand the WATTS issues.

Take a peek at these PS's.

Here's a Thermaltake 430W PS:



Now here's an Antec 380W PS:



Without really investigating many who need a 400W PS would think the 430W Thermaltake would do the trick what with it's 'extra' 30W.
 

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At the link you posted in your previous thread, and I posted in post #9 of this thread,

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171011

if you will revist the website, under output specifications for the +12v rails you will see quote;

"[email protected],[email protected],[email protected],[email protected],
[email protected] 19A,[email protected],[email protected]"

19.5A + 19.5A + 19A = 58A

The continuity +12v specs listed on the pic of the decal from your power supply;

+12v1 16A, +12v2 14A, +12v3 8A.

16A + 14A + 8A = 38A

38A is approximately 33% LESS than the original advertised specs of 58A.
 

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They're just quoting the peak output. Most nice power supplies can power significantly more than what they are rated at. While it's a little misleading to quote the peak numbers, it's accurate in a way.
 

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I guess everyone has a different definition for "accurate".

When a PSU manufacturer/distributor supplies information to a reseller that indicates the unit's output is 58 amps on three +12v rails, then by the manufacturer/distributors own "statement" as such on the unit decal indicates that the "Max Power" available on those three rails is actually 38 amps, personally the difference in the specs doesn't fit my definition of "accurate".
 

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It's just for marketing. Take this for example:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153039
Instead of listing the max number of amps across the 12v rail, they list the max number of amps each rail can support.
It's kind of like with LCDs, they list the gray to gray response time instead of the black to white or w/e. It's just a better number. Or when listing contrast ratios they tend to list the "digitally enhanced" contrast ratio or whatever, which is always much higher than what it really is. It is misleading though. But that's why we're here, right?
 
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