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Computer beeps at start up sometimes need help

4K views 58 replies 5 participants last post by  KnightBoy 
#1 ·
When I start up the computer sometimes it beeps, 4 short one long then 2 short one after that it repeats. I tried looking online but I couldn't see anything on my specific beeps. I already unplugged everything, undusted it, and checked if anything was loose nothing loose. Its working normally as far as I can see when I get pass the beeps.


Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version 1.0.0.4
OS Version: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro, 64 bit
Processor: AMD A10-5800K APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics, AMD64 Family 21 Model 16 Stepping 1
Processor Count: 4
RAM: 8133 Mb
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon R9 200 Series, -2048 Mb
Hard Drives: C: 465 GB (104 GB Free);
Motherboard: MSI, A78M-E35 (MS-7721)
Antivirus: Windows Defender, Disabled
 
#6 ·
According to its support site, your MSI motherboard has an AMI BIOS.
According to the 2012 beep code list, 4 beeps indicates "timer not operational - bad motherboard".

Your video played fine, but all I could hear was the fan spinning.
I couldn't hear any beeps.

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#14 ·
Ok so update.Same issue is present but I was able to just restart until it boots normally, now it take forever for it to boot normally.I tested the ram by taking out each stick restarting, either way it still beeped, so I came to the decision that maybe its just the processor/motherboard that is bad. I wanted to know how do I test that before buying a new motherboard/processor. I don't know if anyone will reply but I don't know what else to do.
 
#15 ·
Hello,

From my experiences, computer hard drive does produce sounds while it is working. However, some abnormal sounds, like clicking, also could indicate serious hard drive problems, like bad sectors, physical damages and more.

Go diagnose it with professional software or CHKDSK.
 
#16 ·
Cold boot problems that go away after 1~2 restarts are very often pw supply problems. What happens is that when the system is OFF, the capacitors in the pw supply slowly lose charge. When you hit the ON button, the failing pw supply just does not have sufficient pw to boot the system. After a restart, the caps are up to full charge and it can now boot the system.
In your specs, you did not include the MOST important part; the exact pw supply you have installed. Do not post "500W" post the exact brand and model#

As for the cpu or board failing, cpus seldom fail. They either work or they do not; in fact cpus are actually pretty hard to hurt unless you overclock/overvolt them OR physically damage the cpu during installation. I would be much more suspect of the motherboard than the cpu. IMO msi is NOT a high end board mfg; at best a mid-level mfg. In addition that particular board does not appear to be one of msi's better quality boards.
 
#19 ·
Corsair makes some fine pw supplies however that one is NOT one of them. The cx or builder series is NOT designed for any type of gaming, overclocking or any other stressful endeavor.
The cx line is for a basic build only ie onboard video, low end system. The very first thing I would do would be to swap in a quality pw supply of at least 550~600W. If you want to use a corsair, the only recommend models are the AX, HX, or RM models. Other decent pw supplies; seasonic, FSP [only units with the 5yr warranty] or antec [only the HCG models]
 
#20 ·
Corsair makes some fine pw supplies however that one is NOT one of them. The cx or builder series is NOT designed for any type of gaming, overclocking or any other stressful endeavor.
The cx line is for a basic build only ie onboard video, low end system. The very first thing I would do would be to swap in a quality pw supply of at least 550~600W. If you want to use a corsair, the only recommend models are the AX, HX, or RM models. Other decent pw supplies; seasonic, FSP [only units with the 5yr warranty] or antec [only the HCG models]
So is the issue might be there isn't enough power?
 
#24 ·
Do the following;
1 Reseat both atx and aux pw connectors on the motherboard. When you have the connectors off, check for any burn marks or arcing
2 Pull out ram and clean slots with a can of air. Install just one ram chip
3 Disconnect any usb device ie printer, scanner, hub, etc. Leave your keyboard connected however be sure it is connected to a rear [on motherboard] port
4 Clear cmos with the clear jumper. Return jumper to the normal or keep position
5 Check the mounting of the cpu fan. Be sure the hsf is securely mounted.
5 Pw ON and see if you can enter the bios. When in the bios, check the following; cpu temp, 12V, 5V, and 3.3V values. Post those here.

Prior to doing the above, read your motherboard manual as to bios menus/options and where to find the aforementioned data.
 
#25 ·
Do the following;
1 Reseat both atx and aux pw connectors on the motherboard. When you have the connectors off, check for any burn marks or arcing
2 Pull out ram and clean slots with a can of air. Install just one ram chip
3 Disconnect any usb device ie printer, scanner, hub, etc. Leave your keyboard connected however be sure it is connected to a rear [on motherboard] port
4 Clear cmos with the clear jumper. Return jumper to the normal or keep position
5 Check the mounting of the cpu fan. Be sure the hsf is securely mounted.
5 Pw ON and see if you can enter the bios. When in the bios, check the following; cpu temp, 12V, 5V, and 3.3V values. Post those here.

Prior to doing the above, read your motherboard manual as to bios menus/options and where to find the aforementioned data.
Ok I did the steps but should I boot it via motherboard or gc
 
#27 ·
OK, you have more than one problem; cpu temp is way too hot for just booting into the bios AND the 12V rail should be stable ie not going up and down. The only voltage that you should ever see going up and down is vcore or cpu voltage. Vcore is adjusted on a dynamic basis in relation to load.
Fix one problem at a time. I would first install a quality pw supply then fix the cpu overheating issue. I would expect a cpu like yours to run in the low to mid 30s in the bios.
Right now, I would doubt the motherboard is causing your problem however as I said, I am no fan of msi.
 
#29 ·
As I said, you have multiple problems. IF it were me, I would install a quality pw supply that is actually designed for the use you are giving the system.
Up to you which one you want to fix first however you will need to fix both issues.
Could you still have a failing motherboard, yes however you will not know until you fix the system in a systematic manner ie one problem at a time.
 
#31 ·
You fix the overheating by inspecting the cooler, cleaning all parts with 99% alcohol, and replacing the thermal compound [if the cooler is in fact working] If the cooler fan is not working correctly, then just replace the cooler.
Also if it is a failing motherboard do I buy the same or a better one but at a reasonable price?
Up to you if you want another msi board. If it were me [and I had to replace the board] msi would be about the last brand I would choose. I use and recommend either asus or gigabyte boards.
Again up to you however the very first thing is to replace the pw supply with one that is actually designed for you use you are giving it.
You have multiple issues and the only way you are going to fix your system is to test/fix in a systematic manner; ie pw supply, cpu cooler, then motherboard [if necessary]
 
#36 ·
You remove the cooler and clean all parts with 99% or 91% alcohol. Apply new thermal compound IAW [in accordance with] the compound mfg's instructions. Reinstall the cooler and check temps. If you just want to replace the cooler, that can be done as well. Most come with thermal compound already applied.

Just a note. DO NOT force the cooler off. If it will not lift off easily [once the spring clips are released] STOP. DO NOT force it off. If you encounter this, just pw ON the system for a min or two. Pw OFF and the cooler will now lift off.
 
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